Château Capbern 2020

Compact, dense, austere, a hint of coarse-grained tannins, powerful.

Shows a darker profile than most of its AOC brethren, with dark plum and black cherry fruit forming the core, while hints of singed bay leaf, warm earth and dark tobacco peek through. Reveals an earthy tug through the finish, too. Approachable now but no rush. Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Petit Verdot. Drink now through 2034.

Fine aromas of new saddle leather, vivid violet, juicy blackberry and tobacco leaf. Smooth and fresh, it has superior depth with noticeable yet refined tannins. The high percentage of new oak and Cabernet Sauvignon makes for a seamless, long finish: opulent, fresh and precise. Enjoy with duck breast.

This is pretty and aromatic with ripe black cherries and blackberries as well as hints of chocolate, sweet spices and nut shell. Full-bodied with a deep character of mellow black fruit. Firm and structured with ripe, fine-grained tannins and a velvety finish. Try after 2025.

69% Cabernet Sauvignon, 29% Merlot, 1% Cabernet Franc, 1% Petit Verdot. Cask sample. Dense but vibrant and aromatic. Plenty of crunchy fruit and freshness. Bigger structure than 2019, closer to 2018, the tannins firm and textured. Dry, persistent finish. One for the cellar. Should be good value. (JL)

The 2020 Capbern remains quite the powerhouse, but it has come together well. Punchy red berry fruit, kirsch, gravel and white pepper all meld together in a Saint-Estèphe of class and personality. There's real depth and plenty of character. This is very nicely done. Tasted two times.

Flowers, dark cherries, chocolate, spice, wet forest, and black currants create the perfume. On the palate, the wine is equally fresh as it is ripe, sweet, lush and creamy, with layers of rich, ripe, polished, earthy fruits that linger. This is a vineyard to keep an eye on as it keeps getting better and better. Drink from 2023-2038.

Another terrific Saint-Estèphe is the 2020 Château Capbern, which comes from the same team as Calon Ségur. (Current director Vincent Millet was brought on board in 2021.) Coming from 33 hectares of vines on sandy, gravelly, clay soils, the final blend is 69% Cabernet Sauvignon, 29% Merlot, and the rest Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot. The élevage spanned 18 months in 60% new French oak, and this beauty hit just 12.8% natural alcohol. Gorgeous cassis, violets, damp earth, iron, and classy oak all emerge on the nose, and it's full-bodied on the palate, with beautiful tannins, a layered, seamless mouthfeel, and the vintage's pure, focused, age-worthy style front and center. Give bottles just 4-6 years and enjoy over the following two decades.

Capbern is an exciting label to watch in St Estèphe, as it becomes increasingly sleek and complete. There is a punch of ripe fruit here, following the heat waves of the summer, and you find blackberry, damson, cocoa bean and pencil lead, but still plenty of juice to keep the flavours concentrated but flowing. 60% new oak, 3.8 pH, 33 hl/ha yield.

The 2020 Capbern is deep garnet-purple in color. It needs a lot of coaxing to reveal a core laced with crème de cassis, wild blueberries, and mulberries, with hints of fruitcake and pencil shavings. Medium to full-bodied, the palate is plush and juicy, with plenty of uncomplicated black fruits and a spicy finish.

A peppery, intoxicating nose of black licorice, with breathtaking purity. Juicy and spicy on the palate, with inky black fruit, it brims with energy.

The notion of freshness appears from the very first aromas! Capbern calls to be tasted, thanks to the intensity of its aromatic expression. Compact and slightly creamy, the wine is harmonious and supported by tannins that provide a certain power. The finish, enhanced by its acidic structure and a fine bitterness, highlights a need for development while also announcing promising prospects.

Constantly progressing, with a fresh, camphorated bouquet, aromas of fully ripe grapes and eau‑de‑vie‑steeped fruit, and a lovely dense yet well‑integrated texture. An extra measure of style, terroir, and volume versus 2019. Bonus points for sapidity and salinity on the finish.

93–95. Barrel Sample. Ripe and smoky, this is a wine with some serious tannins. The wine's power is mitigated by its acidity and bright freshness. The wine presents stunning Cabernet Sauvignon black fruits that will allow it to age.