Henschke : Mount Edelstone 2018

Impressive for its complexity and seamless, plush tannins, with rich baked, spiced plum, salted caramel, star anise, dark chocolate and fresh details of rosemary and sage. Reveals a black pepper accent that lingers on the provocative finish, where the flavors keep coming. Drink now through 2036. 1,000 cases made, 150 cases imported.

First bottled in 1952 by Stephen Henschke's father Cyril, this renowned cuvée is likely Australia's longest consecutively produced single-site wine, from a vineyard planted in 1912. A gem of an old-vine wine in every sense (it is named for the yellow opals once found in the area), it is spectacular in this vintage. The mouthfeel is seductive and supple, carrying trademark savory bay leaf, sage and peppercorn notes that integrate beautifully into ripe, black bramble and blood plum flavors. Structure for long aging is assured by firm yet velvety tannins and fresh acidity. A gorgeous, opulent, complex wine that, on several tastings over three days, I preferred to Hill of Grace.

Serious, fulfilling nose but super elegant, with subtle spices, sage, spearmint, heather, ink, dark chocolate, red-berry fruit and blueberries. A refreshing citrus note, reminiscent of bergamot. Almost plush but nothing heavy here; instead, this is quite ethereal, with agility on the palate and even, ultra-fine tannins that are beguilingly sweet. The silky, fresh and persistent finish lasts almost two minutes. Drink or hold. Screw cap.

Mount Edelstone may not garner as much fame as this historic Hill of Grace vineyard, but with ungifted vines well over 100 years old, this is a treasure in itself. 2018 was a warm, plush vintage. It's demonstrated here via rich, layered aromas of plum cake and cherry cordial atop earthier, smokier notes like grilled beets, bay leaf and mocha. The palate is equally hearty but with balance and restraint. There's a lovely line of acidity and a fine frame of earthy tannins. Still young, this has several decades ahead of it.