Château Haut-Batailley 2023

Tobacco, dark fruit, mineral undertones; taut palate, crisp fruit, pronounced, powdery tannins, saline finish; can age.

Fragrant raspberries and blackcurrants on the nose with floral touches too. Vivid purple in the glass. Some herbal notes, liquorice and menthol/eucalyptus. Nicely structured, good bounce and flesh but cool and sleek too. I like the weight, enough tannins, well integrated, but gives structure and power. It’s not heavy, really has a clear vein of freshness that is so appealing. Lots of cool blueberry, mint, graphite and liquorice on the finish. Almost chewy, but clean and direct. Finessed but with power and depth. Really very good.

71% Cabernet Sauvignon, 25% Merlot, 4% Petit Verdot. Cask sample. Lovely purity of fruit. A certain opulence but fresh and defined. Tannins are suave and long yet present. Persistent finish. Well crafted. (JL)

Black raspberries, chocolate, mint, flowers, espresso, currants fill the aromatic profile. The palate is brisk, crisp, and crunchy, with a vivid display of currants and spice, and a chewy, lively, red-currant-filled finish. The wine was made from blending 71% Cabernet Sauvignon, 25% Merlot, and 4% Petit Verdot. This is the first time Petit Verdot has been included in the blend. Drink from 2029-2055.

Dark ruby, purple reflections, brightening on the rim. Fine fruity bouquet, ripe cherries, a hint of cloves, inviting bouquet. Juicy dark berries, firm tannins, good complexity and freshness, mineral on the finish, delicately leafy aftertaste, will benefit from further ageing.

71% Cabernet Sauvignon, 25% Merlot, 4% Petit Verdot. Delicately etched red-berry bouquet, sandalwood, cooled rosehip tea and lingonberry purée. On the palate, firmly focused with a tight-knit tannic corset, it stays dense, with nervy drive and a muscular frame. Concentrated finish of red currant, heather, and a floury astringency. A purist Pauillac that doesn’t deny its closeness to St. Julien.

Delivering elegance and finesse, this showcases why Haut-Batailley is so different in personality from Lynch Bages in this stable of wines, with a fragrant violet and peony note that takes it almost into St Julien, while slowly building the tannins that root it in Pauillac. Smoke, campfire and slate mix with blackberry and bilberry fruits. 65% new oak for ageing

Score: 92–94. Gently floral notes (iris, musk rose) mingle with pure, seductive black-fruit aromas, touched with a hint of white pepper and a wisp of smoke, forming a harmonious, highly refined bouquet. The palate opens in perfect balance, highlighting deep layers of fruit before revealing featherweight, grainy tannins. A vertical wine that fills the entire tongue right up to the top of the palate, with pure, energizing acidity.

The plum, boysenberry and blackberry compote flavors here are vivid and generous as they unfurl over caressing structure. Ink, violet and anise notes add range, while a cast iron accent chimes in at the very end to make sure you know it's a Pauillac. Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Petit Verdot. Best from 2027 through 2039.