Wine Advocate-Parker : Having pointed out - in connection with this year's Heimbourg Riesling - that a wine of only 9 grams residual sugar could 20 years ago have been sold as vendange tardive, Olivier Humbrecht proceeds to explain that - at 32 grams - he felt his 2006 Riesling Rangen Clos Saint Urban had already fermented too far to be bottled as V.T., which is how he had envisioned it at harvest! The deep color here signifies the strong presence of botrytis. The smoky aromatic pungency is, I think, a case of noble rot reinforcing vineyard character. Quince and gooseberry preserves, dried peach, nut paste, caramel, and peat saturate a palate of creamy richness and palpable density, and this finishes only slightly sweet, its analysis notwithstanding. It might well improve in bottle for a few years, but I would certainly monitor it carefully.