Le Vieux Télégraphe 2009

This 135-acre estate (all in the famed La Crau) has produced a 2009 Vieux Telegraphe Chateauneuf du Pape composed of 65% Grenache, 15% Syrah, 15% Mourvedre and the rest other authorized varietals (from vines that average 60 years of age). The wine is aged 18 months in foudres and concrete tanks. This classic offering had just been bottled before my visit, so it was probably tighter than it will be in 6-12 months. Deep ruby/purple-colored with notes of garrigue, seaweed, licorice, plums, black cherries and raspberries, it typically reveals a Mediterranean sea breeze-like character that is difficult to articulate. The sweetness of the tannin, full-bodied mouthfeel, and evolved style remind me somewhat of the 1983, which is still drinking beautifully. The 2009 can be consumed now or cellared for two decades. Importer: Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant, Berkeley, CA; tel. (510) 524-1524

Precise nose, beautiful and focused, with pure dark-fruit aromas and notes of roasted spices. Opulent texture, really expressive and harmonious, delivering plenty of pleasure and a mineral character.

Relatively light but well balanced. Rather pretty and even delicate! But racy and definitely Châteauneuf. Great vitality with light tannins on the finish. A thoroughly attractive drink. One might almost call it playful. It’s just not that concentrated but the balance is great. (JR)

The 2009 Domaine du Vieux Télégraphe Châteauneuf-du-Pape La Crau is a beauty. A blend of 60% Grenache, 15% Syrah, 15% Mourvèdre, and the rest an assortment of varieties, all from La Crau, it exhibits a traditional, muscular bouquet of both red and black fruits, white pepper, rolled stone, iron, and spice cabinet-like characteristics. This is followed by a medium to full-bodied, structured wine that has a firm, focused feel, solid concentration, and an edgy, long finish. Overall, this is an old school, classically styled wine that’s meant for aging; it will need time to be approachable. I would give bottles 5-7 years in the cellar, and then plan on drinking them over the following 10-15 years.

Dense, complex and tightly knit, with very fine tannins, this immense Châteauneuf is destined for glory, combining power and refinement.

Time refines and purifies the aromatic profile. The nuances become more precise and subtle. Behind the exhilaration of crème de cassis, humus, zan, licorice, and bitter cocoa slip in. The palate rounds out, broadens with generous, warm substance, yet without exuberance. A sun-drenched vintage, it could have sunk into alcoholic depths. On the contrary, it holds back, it calms. Its still slightly rough grain softens into a shimmering fabric of moiré velvet.