M. Chapoutier : Le Clos 2020

A superb Saint-Joseph, capable of rivaling those produced by the local vignerons, Chapoutier's 2020 Saint-Joseph Le Clos offers up nicely perfumed aromas of licorice, blueberries and cassis. Full-bodied, earthy and powerful on the palate, it's a rich, muscular style of Saint-Joseph, loaded with ripe tannins and finishing long and textured.

An opulent, brooding version that screams generosity and richness. Offers a lavish display of black plum, smoke and bacon fat flavors, revealing base notes of milk chocolate and cigar box. Beefy and burly, without being too heavy, thanks to a savory beam of acidity and violet aromatic accents. Shows a pronounced cast iron mineral streak, which sails through on the expertly framed finish. Drink now through 2038. 15 cases imported.

Dense black fruit overlaid with violets—very much in the Mauves style of Saint-Joseph. Peppery and spicy, full-bodied without heaviness, this feels dense but not overly thick. Tannins are chalky but melting, like 100% pure cocoa. The oak is a little more pronounced than with this producer's Les Granits cuvée, but it's nicely integrated. There's intense concentration and deep, dark tannins before the lifted finish. May prove to be the best vintage yet of Le Clos.

Lots of smoke and smoked bacon character on the nose, but also the blackest forest berries and a whiff of tar. Concentrated, compact and cool with a wonderful wild-herb freshness and a pretty radical stony minerality. Then you come back and find violets and licorice. As the wine aerates the minerality gets more and more intense. From an east-facing parcel with granitic soil. From biodynamically grown grapes with Demeter certification. Drinkable now, but best from 2025.