Quinta do Noval : Vintage Nacional 1997

The 1997 Nacional is a legend from this pre-phylloxera vineyard. The color is a saturated black/purple. The nose reveals floral scents intermingled with coffee, blackberries, tar, cassis, licorice, and chocolate. Extremely full-bodied, but less massive and more seamless, this spectacular Nacional will reach its plateau of maturity quickly, where it will remain for 2–3 decades. Anticipated maturity: 2007–2040. Importer: William Grant & Sons, Edison, NJ; tel. (732) 225-9000

Dark ruby with some violet color. Black cherries and red cherries. Some spices. This is very powerful. It’s full and chewy with a depth and length that goes on for minutes. Really great. Tight at the end. Harmony and depth. Triumph. Surprise. If you want to drink this now, decant five or six hours before. Drink or hold.

Peppery, even a little floral, with a savoury, meaty note and a very slight molasses aroma – dark rather than sweet. Dry and a little stern, upright, yet also fresh with massive concentration. Mineral schist aftertaste. Spicy finish. Much too young. (JH)

Warm, powerful, concentrated, big, unformed and seemingly quite young, this is all about the potential when the wine matures and all the elements are melded together. The wine is more mineral-driven now, with freshness and energy, rather than lush, sweet, chocolate-cherry and fig notes. I do not drink much Port, and very little of it is Quinta Noval Nacional, but I suspect it will need another 20 years to reach its peak.