Weingut Dönnhoff : Riesling Roxheimer Höllenpfad Trocken 2023

Salty and mineral-driven, with a core of dried peach and zesty lemon. Mostly about savory power and crushed stone, this stops just shy of austere on the chiseled, smoky, focused finish. Drink now through 2032. 42 cases imported.

The 2023 Riesling Roxheimer Höllenpfad is harvested from around 50-year-old vines on steep, south-facing Permian red sandstone. It's made half and half in neutral wood and stainless steel. Lovely savor spreads from the glass with notions of yarrow crushed against stone. The palate is slender but concentrated and vivid, with a juiciness that has something of apple, something of herbal tisane, something of tart orange zest; all are beautifully taut and elongated. The 2023 is understated and lovely, with a savory zestiness on the clean-cut finish. (Bone-dry)