Château Ducru-Beaucaillou 2002

It is good to see this wine showing much better from bottle than it did from barrel, where it had a certain leanness and herbaceousness. There is still a hint of dried herbs in the classy nose of red and black currants, cedar wood, and spice box. The wine has a deep ruby/purple-tinged color, excellent density, and medium body in an elegant style with a hint of road tar and sweet fruit. It should drink well young but age nicely for 12-15 years. Make no mistake about it, it has nowhere near the size, dimension, power, and intensity of the 2003. Of course, this estate is now being run by Bruno Borie, the eldest son of the late Jean-Eugene Borie. He replaced his younger brother, Xavier Borie, who remains fully responsible for Grand-Puy-Lacoste and Haut-Batailley.

Aromas of tobacco, currant and cigar box follow through to a full body, with silky, refined tannins and a clean, focused finish. Caressing and very pretty. Coming together now. Best after 2010. 17,500 cases made.

With some bricking around the rim, this classically styled, medium-bodied wine offers notes of cedar, leaf, tobacco, cedar and bright red fruits on the nose. Austere in character, with firm tannins and a bright, almost tart palate marked by earthy, herbal red-fruit tones, it can be enjoyed now or cellared, but it is unlikely to change much from here.

A dream bouquet: perfumed, with ripe plums and a delicately vanilla sweetness, even with a light sandalwood touch. On the palate, great drive, a soft sweetness and an almost creamy finish. It’s a lot of fun and, as one of the last truly “fun” Ducru vintages, it belongs in any smart Bordeaux cellar. If you spot this wine on a wine list—order it!

03: Amazingly light colour, bright ruby-garnet. Subtle, finely detailed bouquet: cherry, wild berries, pink peppercorn, floral notes. Delicate, almost dancing palate, juicy tannins, a peppery touch yet fine tannins, with substance. A feminine, delicate Ducru, perhaps lacking a little depth. (17/20). 08: Medium-deep, showing the first fine hints of maturity. Classic St.-Julien cedar bouquet, Dominican tobacco, first terroir notes; remarkably approachable. Dancing, refined on the palate, with a gently peppery edge in the extract, finishing on a pleasantly aromatic finale. At the start of a drinking window that will easily last 20 years. (17/20). 09: Dream bouquet, perfumed, ripe plums and a delicately vanilla sweetness, even a touch of sandalwood; the oak currently shows as a conciliatory sweet note. The palate has great drive, with soft sweetness and an almost creamy finish. Tremendous fun, and one of the last really “fun” Ducru vintages—an essential for any smart Bordeaux cellar. If you spot this wine on a wine list: order it! (18/20). Delicate nose, black peppercorns. Slim on the palate yet showing quite a lot of flavour, a plum touch and very light capsule notes on the finish. (18/20). 12: Lightening garnet, with the first very fine notes of maturity. Floral bouquet, restrained, red berries, but also Dominican tobacco. If you give it a little time, more and more delicately sweet aromas emerge. Nicely plummy palate, elegant tannins, long-bodied, moving towards especially fine, classic Bordeaux. It has come on since the last impression. The ageing potential should not be underestimated. Ducru has always been good in smaller vintages, and that is also true of the 2002.

Airy, animal, subtly green bouquet with notes of cedar, tobacco and roast gravy. Medium-bodied, elegant and fine-boned on the palate, with delicate tannins and good aromatic expression. Refined finish. 17/20 drink – 2016

A blend of 82% Cabernet Sauvignon and 18% Merlot, the 2002 Ducru-Beaucaillou has a medium garnet-brick color. It opens with notes of sweaty leather, crushed rocks, iron ore, and dried Provence herbs, leading to a core of dried cranberries and kirsch, plus a hint of lavender. The light to medium-bodied palate delivers a lightly chewy texture and plenty of freshness to frame the mature, savory flavors, finishing minerally.

Fine and precise, a little lean for the vintage, this wine doesn’t show the estate at its best, but the class of the terroir still comes through.

A moderately intense nose. Fruity, but with a slightly green, woody character. On the palate, while aromatic, this wine shows slightly green, straightforward tannins on the finish. The mid-palate is lacking.