Château Haut-Brion 2012

The 2012 Haut Brion (65% Merlot, 33% Cabernet Sauvignon, 2% Cabernet Franc) is certainly one of the candidates for the wine of the vintage, with a dense purple color, classic nose of crushed rock, lead pencil shavings, black raspberry, blueberry and flowers. The wine shows subtle barbecue smoke notes in the background, but is full-bodied, stunningly concentrated and builds incrementally, yet finishes with luxurious, almost extravagant amounts of fruit and intensity. From only 46% of the production, this is an absolutely remarkable effort from the Dillon family and their winemaking team of the two Jean-Philippes. Drink it over the next 30-40 years.

This combines power and refinement, with a singed alder frame around a dense core of red and black currant, plum and blackberry fruit. Notes of bay, black tea and tar line the finish. Has a lovely, fine-grained feel that lets the dark, hefty fruit drape beautifully. The tobacco element hangs in the background. Sneakily long. Best from 2018 through 2030. 9,008 cases made.

96–98. Barrel sample. A beautifully ripe wine that's very dense in its character. The wine is generous and rich, while also structured. It already has delicious black plum fruit and velvet tannins. A wonderful, opulent wine that's packed with full-throated Merlot.

This is a gorgeous, voluptuous wine, sweet as a nut all the way through. Red fruits on the nose with hints of liquorice and coffee. The high proportion of Merlot (65.5%) brings extra richness.

Amazing aromas of wet stones, earth, currants and berries. Subtle and complex. Full body and a beautiful core of ripe fruit on the palate and the finish. Round, light, chewy tannins. Needs at least four or five years to open. This is the most merlot ever in Haut-Brion. Rich too. One of the wines of the vintage. 65.5% merlot, 32.5% cabernet sauvignon and 25 cabernet franc. Better in 2020.

A clear candidate for the wine of the vintage, there is a richness and depth of flavor not found in most wines from this difficult vintage. Full-bodied, with layers of dark, smoky, spiced, tobacco-stained red fruits, ample tannin, and structure for aging as well as ample length and complexity in the finish, give this another 5-7 years in the cellar before opening a bottle. Drink from 2027-2050.

Dark ruby garnet with purple reflections and a hint of brightening at the rim. On the multi-faceted nose, fine heart cherries, a touch of nougat, a pleasant herbal savouriness and a touch of orange zest. The palate is complex and taut, with ripe red berries matched to a finesse-rich structure and supporting tannins that will need a few more years. Has considerable ageing potential.

Dense and rich with elegant dark fruit, tobacco, chocolate, rather massive palate with finely distributed tannin, layers of elegant fruit and a very long, almost explosive finish. Excellent wine.

62.5% Merlot, 32.5% Cabernet Sauvignon, 2% Cabernet Franc. Deep purple, concentrated at the core, with a garnet rim. A magnificent bouquet of tar, dark berries, liquorice, a hint of currants, and Brazilian tobacco. On the palate, unbelievably much more refined than La Mission: here it is unquestionably a Premier Cru, with well-balanced astringency and a lingering finish. A masterpiece in a difficult context. At 44 hl/ha, the yield is clearly below that of La Mission. That same day I tasted more than a hundred wines from the Pessac-Léognan appellation. You could clearly see the gap, like a classification carved in stone. And if, for the 2012 vintage, the potential classification truly holds, then this wonderful Haut-Brion simply stands alone at the top. And with this perfect winemaking performance, it fully deserves it!

62.5% Merlot, 32.5% Cabernet Sauvignon, 2% Cabernet Franc. Deep purple, saturated at the core, with a garnet shimmer at the rim. Majestic nose of tar, dark berries, licorice, a hint of currants, and Brazil tobacco. On the palate, unbelievably much finer than La Mission; here it is unquestionably a Premier Cru, with well-balanced astringency and a lingering finish. A masterpiece in a difficult context. With a yield of 44 hl/ha, clearly below La Mission. On the same day, I tasted more than 100 wines from the Pessac-Léognan appellation. You could clearly see the hierarchy, as in a classification set in stone. And if, for the 2012 vintage, the potential classification really holds true, then this wonderful Haut-Brion stands entirely alone at the top. And with this perfect winemaking performance, it has earned it!

A fresh, creamy, airy, refined bouquet with notes of plum and light tobacco. The palate is fine, fragrant and silky, with sweet fruit, fine tannins, an elegant, finely knit structure, delicate aromatics, and a long, fresh finish. 18/20 drink by 2038.

Whiff of gunsmoke reduction, opening up to show concentrated dark berry fruit with liqourice, pencil lead, campfire and black truffle. Stately and muscular, a brilliant counterpoint to the grace of La Mission Haut-Brion. Grips the palate, this is one of the highest alcohol wines in the vintage and yet it is balanced, with so much flavour and presence that just fills the palate and hangs on. I remember loving this En Primeur, and at the 10 years on mark it remains one of the wines of the vintage. 100% new oak.

Medium to deep garnet colored, the 2012 Haut-Brion leaps with vibrant blackcurrant cordial, preserved plums, tar, and licorice scents, followed by touches of graphite, dried roses, and cardamom plus a hint of crushed rocks. Full-bodied, firm, and very fine-grained, it has loads of savory and mineral layers leading to a long, decadently rich, fruity finish on this very pure and youthful wine. The blend is 65% Merlot, 33% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 2% Cabernet Franc.

Intense ruby red. A complex bouquet with good intensity. Caramel, mint and chocolate. There are also notes of liquorice, clove and vanilla. In the end, the fruit makes its way through, revealing raspberry and blackcurrant. A smooth, seductive opening. Good intensity on the palate, elegant and dense. The tannins emerge mid-palate but are able to match the structure. Fruity finish. A very fine success.

The nose is elegant, refined and racy, with fruity aromas and a certain power. It reveals notes of blackberry and blackcurrant, alongside a touch of fig and spice, as well as hints of violet flowers, liquorice and green pepper. The palate is fruity, generous and vibrant, balanced and smooth, offering fine fruit precision and definition, a touch of juiciness, racy minerality, tension and a discreet underlying acidity, along with a beautifully fleshy, silky texture. On the palate, the wine expresses notes of blackberry, black cherry jam and blackcurrant, complemented by a touch of redcurrant and raspberry, as well as a delicate hint of wild strawberry and liquorice, a very subtle touch of chocolate and fine oaky nuances. The tannins are elegant. Good length and persistence, with a very subtle truffled note.

Logo on the cork: AL Dark, intense color with slight maturity. A superb, fragrant nose—subtle and deep—with hints of plum and licorice. The palate is silky, suave and especially fruit-driven, but the finish is a touch firm, even though the texture is fine.