Paul Jaboulet-Aîné : Domaine de Thalabert 2017

Marked by scents of licorice, plum and cassis, the 2017 Crozes Hermitage Domaine de Thalabert is a full-bodied effort (although less full than the 2018), with a fine sense of balance, a crisp finish and slightly drying tannins.

This has a very attractive feel in 2017. Sanguine aromas of chocolate, iron and dark berries. There’s real richness and a plush feel on the palate with a fine, elongated tannin drive. Super sleek. Great density and focus here. Will age very well. Try from 2024.

Inky ruby. Smoke-accented cherry and dark berries on the deeply perfumed nose, which takes on olive and baking spice nuances with air. Smooth, concentrated and appealingly sweet, offering plush boysenberry, cherry and singed plum flavors and a spicy touch of cracked pepper. Finishes broad, sweet and long, with harmonious tannins and repeating spiciness.

Smoky black cherries, peppery spice, and dark leafy herbs on the nose. On the medium-bodied palate, the wine is fresh, soft, elegant, and loaded with blackberries and olive-tinged plums. Drink from 2025-2035.

This terroir always delivers a wild, opulent, gamey style of wine, and the 2017 Crozes-Hermitage Domaine de Thalabert doesn’t disappoint. Loads of chocolaty black fruits, ground pepper, truffle, and smoked game, as well as a hint of black olives, emerge from the glass, and it’s medium to full-bodied, has a rocking texture, ripe tannins, and a great finish. It’s a classic example of this wine and terroir. Drink it over the coming 15 years or so.

Serious on the nose, even a touch closed, with a straight palate and licorice-tinged tannins of lovely freshness, sappy and racy.