Château Rauzan-Gassies 2016

Features a core of cassis and cherry preserve flavors, lined with notes of mesquite and dark earth that take over a bit on the finish, leaving a cedary, slightly squared-off feel in the end, as the fruit lacks the energy to keep pace. Drink now through 2027. 6,500 cases made.

This is less intense than some, but then one of the pleasures of Rauzan Gassies is that it takes a less obvious route. Sweet damson aromas are appealing and seductive. I like the lift on the palate, and the marked acidity has that feeling of almost redcurrant juiciness that translates to energy rather than tartness, helped by some clear floral aromatics and earthy undertones. Good quality. Matured in 50% new oak.

Very vibrant red and dark berries with briary complexity, leading to a palate that has a smooth array of bright, fleshy red cherries and raspberries, as well as a juicy and fresh, lively finish. Try from 2021.

Deep purple-rimmed crimson. Scented with black fruit and pencil shavings. Dry, dry texture but with real finesse. Dark, subtle fruit. Real elegance that stands out even after tasting 50 wines. (JH)

The 2016 Rauzan Gassies is powerful, dense, but also a bit rough around the edges. I had hoped élevage would take care of some of the harder contours the wine showed en primeur, but, sadly, it did not. Tobacco, herbs, licorice and game notes add to the wine's distinctly burly profile.

On the bright red side of the style range, the wine is medium-bodied with nice floral overtones and a crisp, lean herbal and sharp red fruit finish.

The 2016 Château Rauzan-Gassies is another terrific Margaux that puts the vintage’s classic elegance and purity front and center. Its medium ruby color is followed by complex notes of spring flowers, bay leaf, mint, and black raspberries. It’s medium-bodied, with a silky, elegant texture, fine tannins, and is undeniably a beautiful wine. Drink it over the coming 15–20 years.

Kunz barrel sample 17: restrained, light bouquet, red berries, old wood, chalk. Firm, slender palate with hard tannins, light fruit, little aromatics, drying finish.

Restrained, light bouquet, red berries, old wood, chalk. Firm, slender palate with hard tannins, light fruit, little aromatics, drying finish. 16/20 2024 - 2032

It offers a seductive side, a well-structured palate, but not the breadth of the best in the appellation.

Dark, intense, and beautiful color. Moderately aromatic nose with ripe, creamy fruit. The palate is soft and caressing, fragrant at mid-palate and pleasant. The finish is a touch astringent. Normal length.

Packed with dark tannins and impressively rich, this wine comes from one of the estates that has shown considerable improvement over the last few vintages. Spicy, fruity and juicy with black-currant flavors, the wine will age well. Drink from 2024.