Château Vray Croix de Gay 2017

Medium to deep garnet-purple colored, the 2017 Vray Croix de Gay opens with notes of warm blackberries, boysenberries and black raspberries with wafts of stewed tea, fragrant earth and cloves. Medium to full-bodied, the palate is packed with expressive black fruit, framed by ripe, rounded tannins and plenty of freshness, finishing long and spicy.

Split over two areas, one by Lafleur and the other by Trotanoy, divided into nine plots, none of which were affected by frost. A little austere, this is not quite at the level of 2016, but it is still extremely good stuff from winemaker Penelope Godefroy and owners Artemis. Reticent at first, it needs to be met rather than glossed over, although it was tasting significantly richer at a tasting held just a week later. This showcases firm, bright, fine tannins with damson fruits that trip along the palate. Three years of working biodynamically at this estate are starting to show through in terms of heightened persistency and vibrancy to the tannins. Jean Claude Berrouet consults. Harvested 13–28 September.

Licorice and dried flowers with blackberry undertones follow through to a medium body, firm and creamy tannins, and a long, linear finish. Not the biggest wine, but it shows finesse and balance. Drink after 2021.

Very dark purplish crimson. Subtle mix of dark fruit and savoury oak with graphite notes. Relatively light on the palate but delicately scented and extremely fine tannins. Elegant, if not yet complex. Juicy but a bit oaky on the finish. (JH)

Silky, soft and smooth, with chocolate-dusted black cherries on the nose and palate; licorice and floral notes also add complexity to the medium-bodied, earthy, juicy character.

Deep garnet with ruby highlights. What a seductive bouquet of blue berries and violets, backed by rosemary and black olives. On the palate, elegant, with a creamy texture and a supporting tannic frame paired with a dancing verve. Focused finish of elderberry juice and dried cherry skin. Same score as last year!

Kunz Fassprobe 18: silky, full bouquet, black cherries, blackberries, graphite. Balanced, fresh palate with powerful fruit, rich, sweet aromatics, plenty of fine tannins, creamy structure, long, opulent finish. Can improve further.

2017 shows great rectitude. Aromatically reserved for now—let’s give it time.

Juicy, fresh, fruity wine, sappy, easy to drink, balanced, with supple tannins and a long finish.

Delicate, filigreed bouquet with notes of blueberries and blackberries. A touch of charm on the attack, with a slightly creamy character. The wine is pleasant, balanced, fruity, and well supported by its tannins.

Logo on the capsule: DF Dark, intense color. Fruity, slightly restrained nose. Juicy on the attack, silky mid-palate, the wine opens aromatically in the middle, then becomes sappy and fairly long, finishing with fine-grained texture. Its tactile profile evokes the Left Bank more than the Right Bank.

91–93. Barrel Sample. Ripe Merlot dominates this wine from a small property. It has great, powerful tannins and some sumptuous blackberry flavors, resulting in a dense texture. Drink from 2024.