Domaine Comte Georges de Vogue : Bonnes-Mares Grand cru 2017

Characteristics and tasting tips for the Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru 2017 from Domaine Comte Georges de Vogüé

Tasting

Appearance

The appearance displays a red tint.

Nose

The nose reveals remarkable complexity with aromas of black cherries, wild berries, and blackcurrant. Notes of dark chocolate, peony, and candied orange peel are added to the mix. With aeration, the bouquet evolves towards nuances of toasted almonds and becomes progressively more flamboyant, unveiling a personality recalling that of Musigny.

Palate

On the palate, this wine offers a medium-to-full structure, characterized by exceptional elegance and refinement. The flavors deploy a taut muscularity while preserving freshness and transparency. The fine, chalky tannins provide structure without aggression. The mid-palate presents beautiful density with a core of pure fruit, culminating in a long, fragrant finish. The ensemble expresses a supple and elegant version of the Vogüé Bonnes-Mares, counting among the most accessible and graceful expressions produced by the estate over the last decade.

Food and wine pairings

This Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru 2017 pairs perfectly with roasted game preparations such as venison, pheasant, or duck. Duck confit constitutes a particularly harmonious pairing. Roasted beef meats, served rare, as well as roast rack of lamb, also represent excellent choices. Poultry like roast chicken, guinea fowl, and partridge are also suitable. It is recommended to favor simple preparations highlighting the quality of the meat rather than elaborate sauces that could mask the wine's aromatic finesse.

Service and storage

It is advisable to serve the Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru 2017 at a temperature between 14 and 16°C. This wine can be appreciated now but will continue to evolve until at least 2048, with an optimal tasting period stretching from approximately 2026 to 2037.

A Chambolle-Musigny Grand Cru combining elegance and structure

The estate

Domaine Comte Georges de Vogüé, established in 1925, represents one of the most prestigious estates in Burgundy. Located in Chambolle-Musigny in the heart of the Côte de Nuits, the estate has been managed since 2002 by sisters Claire de Causans and Marie de Ladoucette, who embody the twentieth generation of this family of owners since 1766. With approximately 12.5 hectares of vines, the estate holds the largest surface area of the Musigny Grand Cru (about 7.12 hectares representing 65 to 70% of the appellation) and 2.66 hectares of Bonnes-Mares. The estate distinguishes itself by its winemaking philosophy respectful of the terroir and its commitment to viticulture according to organic principles.

The vineyard

The Bonnes-Mares appellation extends over approximately 15 hectares distributed between the communes of Chambolle-Musigny and Morey-Saint-Denis. The 2.66 hectares of Domaine Comte Georges de Vogüé are located in the southern part of the vineyard, on the territory of Chambolle-Musigny. The plots benefit from an exposure mainly oriented to the east, at an average altitude between 250 and 280 meters. The soils present a clay-limestone composition with a relatively high proportion of iron-rich red clay, resting on a subsoil of limestone and white marl dating from the Jurassic. The soil depth reaches about 40 centimeters. These geological characteristics confer a particular richness and a marked structural definition to the wines.

The vintage

The 2016-2017 winter in Burgundy was the coldest since 2012, allowing for a natural sanitation of the vineyard. February, March, and the first fortnight of April saw mild and dry conditions with early budburst. A cold spell starting April 10th threatened to repeat the frost damage of 2016, but temperatures remained less severe and a west wind limited the damage. The first fortnight of May was cool, slowing growth, before summer weather at the end of May favored rapid and even flowering in early June. The first three weeks of June were magnificent with a heatwave from June 19th to 23rd. Rain and coolness returned in mid-July, necessitating repeated green harvesting. August brought back summer conditions allowing the soils to dry out. Veraison finished the third week of August. The grapes reached beautiful maturity in early September with excellent sanitary health.

Winemaking and aging

The Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru 2017 was vinified according to the estate's philosophy favoring minimal intervention and respect for the expression of the terroir. Technical decisions are adapted to each vintage rather than following a fixed formula. The proportion of whole bunches, the vatting duration, the fermentation temperature, and the percentage of new barrels (generally limited to 35% maximum for Grand Crus) vary according to the specific needs of each harvest. The wines were placed in barrels at the end of September 2017. Malolactic fermentation was completed between June and July 2018. Bottling took place between January and February 2019.

Grape variety

Pinot Noir (100%)