E. Guigal : La Mouline 2017

Racy-edged and still a bit coiled up, this has a core of dark cherry and currant fruit that has melded nicely with singed alder, tobacco and sanguine notes. Flashes of chocolate and espresso crema add a more taciturn edge to the finish, but time should bring that into the fold, as this has superior length and drive for cellaring. Best from 2024 through 2038. 210 cases made, 60 cases imported.

Immediately fresh and highly perfumed – tobacco, star anise and wood – before the fruit appears. There’s an intensity on the palate, the tannins are firmer than a typical year, but the acidity is balanced and this has a fine, aromatic and tapered finish. I love its immediacy and freshness, its presence on the palate. There is a tiny touch of dryness on the tongue on the finish although the oak is very fine, and well integrated.

Saturated violet. Ripe, spice- and mineral-tinged red and blue fruits, incense, vanilla and strong violet notes are highlighted on the exotically perfumed nose. Sappy, penetrating and lively on the palate, showing impressive delineation and spicy lift to its blueberry, kirsch, floral pastille and cola flavors. Distinctly lively in character, especially in the context of the vintage, finishing with impressive power, polished tannins and echoing spice, mineral and floral notes. As usual, this wine was aged for 42 months in new French oak barrels that were coopered at Guigal.

Bottled in February of 2021, the 2017 Côte Rôtie La Mouline is a seamless, exotic, perfumed, full-bodied effort that offers a classic floral character in its ripe black raspberry and blackberry fruit as well as notes of spice box, espresso, and chocolate. Co-fermented with roughly 10% Viognier, it’s all about gorgeous fruit and texture, and this cuvée has that rare ability to bring incredible richness and depth with no sensation of weight or heaviness. It needs 4-5 years of bottle age and will keep for 20-25 years. This reminds me slightly of the 2011 as well as the 2007.

The great refinement of this cuvée is legendary, and 2017 is no exception. Obviously, patience will be required, but there is no doubt that in about ten years the wine will have settled, and its silky texture will delight patient enthusiasts.