Louis Jadot : Chevalier-Montrachet Grand cru "Les Demoiselles" Dom. Des Héritiers Louis Jadot 2020

A wine of impressive tension and length. The aromas open with lemon peel and a saline minerality, then gain in richness to include fresh quince and ripe apricots. The best whites in 2020—such as this one—balance acidity with richness and are a treat. This plot of Chevalier, just a bit over half a hectare, was upgraded to grand cru from premier cru Caillerets. In times of global warming, this location at the top of the slope is perfect for Chardonnay.

The 2020 Chevalier-Montrachet Les Demoiselles Grand Cru lacks definition on the nose, almost smudged at first, with traces of oxidation. The palate is sour on the entry, has modest weight and is a bit clumsy on the mid-palate, especially when compared to its peers. It is disappointing, given the class, mainly because of some drying oak on the finish. Tasted blind at the annual Burgfest tasting.

Slightly less tension than expected, with great nobility in the vine flower aromas, but the terroir has not yet revealed its full strength.