Michele Chiarlo : Tortoniano 2018

The Michele Chiarlo 2018 Barolo Tortoniano reveals a hint of vintage ripeness with dried raspberry and cherry behind grilled herb and anise seed. The Tortoniano is tight and firm now in its youth, with some mild tannic astringency that will surely relax with just a few more years of bottle age. The wine needs four or five years to flesh out and gain in volume.

A spicy style, with a core of cherry and berry fruit augmented by eucalyptus, tobacco, iron and toasty oak notes. This has intensity, yet ends on the elegant side, courtesy of vibrant acidity. Best from 2025 through 2038. 6,000 cases made, 2,500 cases imported.

Rich red berries, thickened up with sous-bois notes. Medium-bodied with light tannins and a touch of firmness to the finish. Give it a year. Best from 2023.

Mid ruby. Spicy and peppery with shy cherry and raspberry fruit and a hint of old leather and cinnamon bark. Succulent and fragrant red fruit on the palate, with soft, sandy tannins on the finish. Not super-complex, but attractive and ready now. (WS)

Inviting aromas recalling truffle, wild mint, woodland berry and spice escape the glass along with whiffs of rose. The aromas carry over to the savory, elegant palate together with crushed raspberry and star anise while taut, fine-grained tannins provide structure. Fresh acidity keeps it balanced. It's already approachable but also shows great mid-term aging potential. Best 2024–2030.