Bibi Graetz : Testamatta 2022

With fruit picked at 400 meters in elevation, the Bibi Graetz 2022 Testamatta shows primary intensity and good tension with red fruits and cherry. There is a little more concentration here and more tannic bite, and the wine will need more time to resolve and find balance. All of Bibi's wines are made at his new winery located in a former hotel off the main square in Fiesole, Tuscany.

The core flavors of cherry, raspberry and earth are accented by Mediterranean herbs in this vibrant red. Its broad swath of tannins emerges on the finish, yet overall this feels elegant and intense. Fine length. Best from 2027 through 2040. 4,600 cases made, 1,840 cases imported.

Wild strawberries and raspberries star on the nose, while undertones of wild fennel and sweet chili pepper add nuance. More berries arrive on the palate, and although they're sweet and juicy they still have a bit of tartness. The finish of dark chocolate and orange peel is structured by sleek tannins and elevated by acid that slowly builds, then explodes.

The production of both Testamatta and Colore was cut by two-thirds in 2022, partly because Bibi Graetz didn't want to use his south-facing vineyards in such a hot year. ‘I think there is more power, more energy,’ he says. Certainly, Testamatta is singing, and has closed the gap to Colore in 2022. It displays dusty, earthy notes, creamy dark cherry, green olive and spice on a vertical frame with stark salinity. It's precise and energetic, poised and balletic, with a beautiful vibrancy of tangy raspberry, cherry, wild herbs and a touch of plum.

The purity of fruit is so impressive, with al dente fruit character of sliced cherries, cranberries and citrus fruit that’s wonderfully melted together. It’s medium- to full-bodied and grows on the palate, with firm and layered tannins and a long, intense finish. This needs three to four years to refine but is already so enticing. Great beauty. Already irresistible, but best after 2027.

The 2022 Testamatta arrests your attention as it slowly evolves with a bouquet of dried flowers, worn leather, tobacco and dried cherries. This opens with a lovely inner sweetness and silky smooth textures as a core of juicy acidity adds energy and ripe red fruits saturate. A coating of fine tannins flexes upon the palate as the 2022 finishes with outstanding length and a licorice tinge, structured for a balanced evolution. Beautiful.

Rich, bright ruby. Initially somewhat restrained, then shows notes of dark chocolate, dark cherry, lots of blackberry, some plum. Juicy palate, very good tension, opens up with finely-meshed tannins, long finish.