Bouchard Père & Fils : Le Corton Grand cru Domaine 2019

The 2019 Le Corton Grand Cru confirms its superb showing from barrel, blossoming in the glass with scents of wild berries, peonies, violets, blood orange and warm spices. Medium to full-bodied, sumptuous and enveloping, with melting tannins, beautiful purity of fruit and lively balancing acids, it's long and perfumed, concluding with a saline, rose-inflected finish. I have never tasted a Corton from Bouchard that was so good, so young.

From a 3.55ha parcel in Le Corton, at the top of the slope on thin soils, reducing the yield and making for a brilliantly fresh wine. The aromas begin with fragrant red fruit and spice, then a savoury mineral note at the end. On the palate, the wine is crisp, tannic and tightly wound. There is substance here, however, and with time it should open well.

Cask sample. Mid garnet. Pale shaded rim. Intense nose with some sweet-and-salty character. It's not especially weighty but the nose is definitely more intense than that of the premiers crus. Edgy red-fruit and tamarind character. A bold wine. Long with quite a dry finish at this point. (JR)

The 2019 Le Corton Grand Cru has an earthy, slightly dusty nose that lacks the clarity of its peers. There is perhaps a bit of whole-bunch inclusion here, though the stems need to be better integrated. The palate is medium-bodied, with heavy-handed oak on the entry. This is smooth in texture, but it feels ponderous and monotone toward its thickly textured finish. Probably picked a little later than optimal. Tasted blind at the Burgfest tasting.

Powerful yet sleek with effusive, ripe black-cherry character. Silky front palate, then the serious tannins come through. No hint of the rusticity and edginess that you sometimes get from this appellation. More than enough fruit to make a completely convincing package. Bold finish. Drink or hold.