Château Larcis Ducasse 2023

Profound, cool, noble, floral notes, dark fruit, black cherry, underpinned by minerality; straight on the attack, gripping, crisp fruit, razor‑sharp tannins, great tension, lively, elegant, saline and red‑fruited on the finish. Once again excellent.

Vibrant colour. Dark aromatics, something quite alluring about the nose – chocolate, salty stones, blackcurrants. Rich and full, but so smooth, like thick silk, it coats the palate so effortlessly, all while having real grip to the mineral-edged tannins. This packs a lot of power but keeps a cool edge with a vein of graphite and liquorice minerality. Quite a serious take, straight and focused, very well defined, but not overly expansive. I love the hints of sweet, cool blueberries that lift the expression, dotted with cool yet spiced tobacco and clove. A little constricted, but there’s lots to like, and it feels like a good combination of a hot and cool vintage. pH 3.55. Ageing 45% in 225L barrels, 45% in 500L barrels and 10% foudres. Yield of 43 hl/ha.

Another 2023 that is showing much better in the bottle than it did in the barrel. The wine has gained weight and complexity, which is always a positive sign. The floral display in the nose kicks things off in the right way before you get to the marine-influences, and nuances of perfectly red with black pit fruits. Full-bodied, plush, round, concentrated, deep, mineral-driven, vibrant, and packed with fresh, lifted fruits, the finish is crisp, ripe, long, and vibrant. The wine is a blend of 86% Merlot and 14% Cabernet Franc. Drink from 2029-2055.

Dark ruby, deep core, purple reflections, brightening on the rim. Floral touch, black forest berries, a hint of cherries, hints of candied violets, candied mandarin zest. Juicy, elegant, ripe cherries, substantial with ripe tannins, chocolatey and mineral on the finish, shows length and certain ageing potential.

Excellent quality, this is clearly going to age extremely well, with depth, intensity and sculpted, fine-grained, sappy tannins. Sweet character to the brambled damson and black cherry fruit, with sage, rosemary and lavender; a great benchmark wine as ever, with salinity and grip. Tasted three times, once at the estate with owner Jacques-Olivier Gratiot. 43 hl/ha yield, Nicolas Thienpont and David Suire celebrating their 22nd vintage together at the estate. pH 3.55, 50% in new barrels for ageing.

Score: 94–96. A wonderfully serene nose of very pure red fruit, with a highly seductive sweetness, unfolding into exuberant aromas of peony and wisteria, even hints of meaty notes and aromatic herbs. The palate is chiselled like lace, embroidered with fruity and floral nuances, and just as luxurious. A superb chalky minerality carries through to a sumptuous, addictive finish on notes of ripe fruit and coffee, with exquisite bitterness that perfectly conveys the terroir.

A lovely, elegant, precise, elongated nose with a beautiful purity of fruit, depth, and a very discreet, almost Mediterranean touch in the fruit profile. It shows notes of plump/fleshy black berries, blueberry, and, more lightly, crushed blackcurrant, combined with hints of cubeb pepper, fine touches of nutmeg and blond tobacco, a very discreet almost iodized note, and subtle hints of infusion and a very discreet almost vanilla note. The palate is beautifully juicy, fruity, and balanced, offering indulgence, a certain softness, lovely freshness, and a racy edge of minerality and freshness, a nice acidity, a fine spherical feel, and an almost sun-kissed/Mediterranean hint of fruit in the background. A very lovely mid-palate suppleness. It reveals notes of fleshy blackberry, crushed blackcurrant and, more lightly, almost roasted-juicy raspberry, combined with touches of blueberry, crushed red berries, hints of infusion, black tea, star anise, as well as a subtle almost-sage note in the background and subtle toasty and chocolate touches. Good length. Supple, sapid, and gourmand/savory tannins. Lovely freshness and suppleness on the finish/persistence

Shows subtle juiciness that runs through from start to finish, giving the pretty mix of gently mulled plum and raspberry fruit good energy through the alder- and iris-tinged finish. Shows a late tug of chalky minerality. Merlot and Cabernet Franc. Drink now through 2036.