La Massa : Giorgio Primo 2019

‘[Winemaking consultant] Stéphane Derenoncourt told me he'd never seen Cabernet ripen like it does here!’ La Massa's Giampaolo Motta told me enthusiastically. The estate’s flagship wine is a Bordeaux blend from vineyards in the Conca d'Oro in Panzano, unique for being the only area to have a mix of all of Chianti Classico’s three main soil types. Herbal, plummy and earthy, this 2019 is rich in chocolate, spice and black fruits. Concentrated and silky, its glossy dark fruit is lifted by a streak of sapid red fruits, a balsamic fresh element and mouthwatering acidity. Keep for a few years before opening.

Extremely complex aromas of crushed currants, spices and sandalwood with some bark. Violets, too! Full-bodied with creamy, polished tannins and great intensity. Layered and beautiful. Better in 2024, but already beautiful to try.

The 2019 Giorgio Primo is a worthy follow-up to the stellar 2018. Dense, rich and explosive, the 2019 races across the palate with dark fruit, chocolate, leather, incense and spice. This sumptuous Cabernet Sauvignon-based Panzano red has a ton to offer. The oak is a bit prominent; otherwise, the 2019 is nicely done.

Dark purple core and hue. Layered nose offering wet tobacco, darker fruit, cassis, cherry and fine wood underneath. Dense and digest palate with savoury dark fruit flavours, finely grained tannin and a fresh acidity, harmonious with good layers and a long lingering finish.

Taking things up a notch, the 2019 Giorgio Primo is savory and brooding on the nose. Pouring a deep red/purple hue, it reveals notes of boysenberry, pencil shavings, blackcurrants, pine sap, and sage. Full-bodied, it saturates the palate with sweet tannins, a rounded mid-palate, and a great finish. It’s a cellar-worthy wine that’s only going to improve and will harmonize nicely for another few years if stored well. Drink 2026-2046.

Since the 1990s, La Massa has ranked among the best producers of Chianti Classico. This year, Giampaolo Motta is releasing his flagship wine, Giorgio Primo, for the first time on the Bordeaux marketplace. The 2019 is made from 55% Cabernet Sauvignon, 40% Merlot and 5% Petit Verdot. Giorgio Primo is aged in barriques, half of which were new. Its matured, viscous color appears older than 2019. Rich and concentrated, Giorgio Primo shows the classic Tuscan sweetness on the nose, very spicy and full, with slightly evolved accents here as well. Very appealing and with plenty of Cabernet character, it comes across as sweeter than other Tuscan Bordeaux blends, for example from Bolgheri. Silky-smooth and round, with a melting sweetness, yet driven by a slightly strict, consistent acidity. A beautiful, powerful presence, not intended for decades of development, but rather immediately accessible, clearly structured, with a sweet, generous finish.

This 2019 La Massa Giorgio Primo is the estate’s flagship wine dedicated to the owner’s grandfather, Giorgio. It is a harmonious blend of Cabernet Sauvignon (55%), Merlot (40%) and Petit Verdot (5%). The nose opens to notes of oak spice, spicy tomato juice, light green, celery-like notes and richer, sun-dried tomato. The aromas and flavors are a little sweeter, richer and riper than the 2018 with a very pretty, floral extra dimension. The palate is rich and full of flavor but not heavy. The beautifully concentrated mid-palate is balanced by a refreshing acidity and very elegant tannins and with a little dry twist of chalkiness on the finish adding to the length. There are also some attractive black licorice notes which remind me of the Petit Verdot component and add to the range of flavors. Despite its youth this wine is supremely drinkable and shows great finesse but it has the depth and concentration to develop and improve over time. Delightful!

Subtlety seems to be the common thread of this estate. This blend aims for complexity, with no dominant element apart from precision. Delicate fruity nuances combined with a mineral touch ensure complexity. On the palate, the wine stands out for its freshness. It shows a convincing harmony between fine-grained tannins and subtle bitters that support the aromatic intensity of the finish. A wine whose power needs time to integrate. A bit of ageing seems a relevant choice.

The fresh, inviting nose is like carpaccio with a caprese-inspired garnish of cherry tomatoes, basil and a drizzle of balsamic vinegar. The palate continues blending sanguine and umami notes above a latent sweetness, creating a wine that deliciously coats the mouth and then lingers there.