Charles Heidsieck : Vintage 2012

Soon to be released in magnum, the 2012 Brut Millésimé continues to show well, delivering aromas of citrus zest, crisp orchard fruit, freshly baked bread, buttery pastry and beeswax and framed by a deft touch of smoky reduction. Medium to full-bodied, racy and chiseled, with fine depth at the core and a long, penetrating finish, this bottle was disgorged in summer 2021.

A mouthwatering Champagne with a linear focus, which presents as up-front drive in a restrained, subtle way. Features a fine, satiny mousse that carries a range of toasted hazelnut, ripe black currant, mandarin orange peel, verbena and espresso crema notes, which unfurl on the palate and echo on the lasting finish. Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. Disgorged 2019. Drink now through 2032. 238 cases imported.

On release this showed an energetic, tighter side that seems to have settled and relaxed rather quickly into quite a decadent style, even for the extreme ripeness of 2012. There’s some caramel and coffee macaron over charred grapefruit and roasted stone fruit, with tropical warmth and succulence through the rich, citrus syrup and praline palate. A fine, exuberant and plush cuvée whose drinking window is already well open.

Very lemony (blossoms, zest and candied peel), with some red-berry and fresh tobacco-leaf notes. Impressive richness and concentration, the creaminess from lees beautifully matched by the fine mousse and mineral freshness. The latter also powers the structured and saline finish that makes a serious statement. A blend of 60% pinot noir and 40% chardonnay, disgorged in 2020. Drink or hold.

Both intense and discreet. Extremely tightly woven. Not as dry as some but certainly not simple. Tastes more youthful than many 2012s. Subtle and not flamboyant. You feel you could drink this in quantity! (JR)

Medium green-yellow, light brass reflections, very fine, persistent mousse. Delicate hints of cookie, a touch of Greengage plum and yellow tropical fruit, mineral and chalky nuances, candied lime zest, white flowers. Full-bodied, complex, delicate white peach, lively acidity, a hint of ripe mango in the sweet finish, certainly has ageing potential, a versatile food companion.

The 2012 Champagne Millésime Brut is classic and harmonious. Layered and ripe with brioche, hazelnut, and baked apple, it is mouth-filling and round, with a pillowy mousse of ripe pear, custard, and orange oil. This is an assertive and forward wine with a timeless feel. Drink 2023-2043.

A bright golden hue for this chardonnay pinot noir blend. With aeration, it opens onto a broad spectrum of white- and yellow-fruit notes ripened under a benevolent sun. The exotic flowers are intensely fragrant, and gentle aromas of yellow citrus creams carry us toward the airy, melt-in-the-mouth softness of a Bavarian cake. A few fine brown nuances reveal chestnut and even brown mushroom over a very polished, lightly toasty backbone; the pairing with the intensity of a bouquet garni is magical, and the fine salt is nothing short of miraculous. The palate is silkily delicate, with a hazelnut richness that is remarkably classy, almost protective in its embrace. On the threshold of autumn, the undergrowth still speaks with the warmth of an Indian summer. The finish chisels out lemony pulp, fine salt, and pure chalk. What a stirring feeling of perfection...

The buttery notes of a slice of warm toasted bread with café crème at breakfast continue, after the nose, to unfold on the palate throughout the tasting, alongside freshness and a lovely acidity wrapped in the pulp of ripe, fleshy fruit. A Champagne for hedonists.