Chanson : Beaune 1er cru "Clos des Mouches" Domaine 2017

Stone and iodine aromas and flavors enhance the lemon, hazelnut and spice notes of this dense, taut version. It verges on creamy, yet the bracing acidity keeps it firm. Fine length. Best from 2022 through 2028. 41 cases imported.

With a golden color in the glass, this shows an intriguing combination of exotic fruits, green-apple acidity, some reductive notes and toffee crème brûlée characters. 2017 was a fine white wine vintage, giving this Clos des Mouches a distinctive cool streak on the savory, mineral-driven finish. A step up from the Savigny Blanc, Chanson's Clos des Mouches comes from a 2ha plot of Chardonnay planted high up on the hill on stony and sandy soils over limestone bedrock.

Good punch and fine acidity with some real detail. Really fresh and lively (as opposed to some of the softer Chanson 2017 whites). Well delineated and racy. (JR)