William Fèvre : Chablis 1er cru "Montée de Tonnerre" Domaine 2019

40–50% fermented in French oak barrels (aged 6 years on average). The remainder is vinified in small stainless-steel vats. Aged 13–14 months, of which 5 to 6 months on fine lees in French oak barrels for 40 to 50% of the harvest. The end of maturation occurs in small stainless-steel vats. Tank sample. Very creamy on the nose, marked by the lees and gentle oak. Fresh citrus and almost something floral, like blossom, as well as stony/mineral character. Rich, deep and lively. Generous with a good acid backbone, even if it is a little softer than the Vaillons. (JH)

With its oyster-shell signature, Montée de Tonnerre is saline, taut, complete and deep. The vintage makes it approachable, yet it retains a noble austerity.