Domaine Laroche : Chablis Grand cru "Les Clos" 2009

A very lovely clos, tense and elegant. The mineral backbone is in place; the texture will develop gradually—just a little patience.

I find less to get excited about in the 2009 Chablis Les Clos. Like the Blanchots, the Clos is a wine built mostly on fruit rather than structure or minerality. The 40% French oak is very nicely integrated, but the refinement and silkiness typical of the best wines from this site remain elusive. Anticipated maturity: 2012+. Domaine Laroche is back in the US market after an absence of several years. The house style is marked by a search for considerable textural richness, which makes these some of the deeper, more opulent wines made in Chablis. Over the last few years, Domaine Laroche has begun to focus on organic viticulture and increased the use of indigenous yeasts, both of which are rare in Chablis. All of the Domaine Laroche wines are bottled under screwcap, also rare in Chablis, especially at this level. Winemaker Gregory Viennois told me the 2011 harvest started on September 12, towards the later side for the village. Viennois noted that potential alcohols and acidities were quite similar for both 2010 and 2011, which is unusual among the top domaines in Chablis. Importer: Wilson-Daniels, St. Helena, CA; tel. (707) 963-9661

Lean and pinched, offering apple, lemon and wax flavors. 2,500 cases made.