Larmandier-Bernier : Latitude Extra Brut Blanc de Blancs

Larmandier-Bernier NV Extra Brut Latitude in Vertus NLR1001-13 (corresponding to a cuvée formerly referred to as “Tradition”) originates from vineyards on the south side of Vertus, whose relative warmth and weight of soil support a majority of Pinot Noir, which makes up 20% of this cuvée. Alluringly aromatic, it combines saffron, fennel pollen, fresh apple, freshly baked bread, plus tangy buckwheat and ocean breeze, all of which reunite on a buoyant and polished palate, joined by raw almond, with saline, alkaline, and chalky mineral elements gaining prominence on the way to a mouthwatering finish. It should reward attention for at least 2–3 years. Pierre and Sophie Larmandier farm 40 hectares, divided into an even larger number of parcels in Vertus and villages on either side, as well as in the grand cru quartet of Avize, Oger, Chouilly, and Cramant. Among their notable innovations is the use of a helicopter to deliver biodynamic sprays across such a large surface on the appointed “root days.” The precision, refinement, and nuance achieved in their wines are exemplary. A very small share of foudre and barrel is employed for the non-vintage “Latitude” and “Longitude” bottlings simply to “season” that wood before it is transferred to the vintage program, where tanks are in the minority. The Larmandiers favor minimal settling of the juice after pressing, and all of their wines receive close to, if not longer than, one year of élevage before bottling for secondary fermentation; after that, the time until disgorgement and (six months later) release varies widely according to cuvée. Normally, each non-vintage wine includes reserve components from the two previous vintages. Importer: Polaner Selections, Mt. Kisko, NY; tel. (914) 244-0404

A tangy overtone of pink grapefruit peel rides the fine mousse in this creamy Champagne. It's layered with a subtle mesh of apricot, lemon thyme and minerally brine and chalk notes. Well-cut and harmonious. Drink now through 2025. 6,000 cases made, 100 cases imported.

This Blanc de Blancs champagne is anything but flashy and it might take a moment to switch onto its wavelength. However, it has excellent depth and finely etched contours on the medium-bodied palate, the Amalfi-lemon character building as it aerates in the glass. Beautiful balance at the very long, rather rich but very dry finish. From biodynamically grown grapes. Drink or hold.

(4 g/l dosage): Pale yellow. Pungent aromas of citrus pith, pear skin and chalky minerals, plus a suave floral aspect. Juicy and sharply focused, conveying strong mineral, lime and honeysuckle character and a jolt of iodine. Dry and emphatically mineral-driven but not austere in style, finishing with excellent clarity and lingering florality.